Clowning Around: Part Three: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Three: Knitted Leg-Warmers

I’ve made my dress from my pattern and now it’s time to jazz up my daughter’s clown costume with some funky accessories. Since the skirt of the dress is quite short I thought it would look cute with some striking stripey flared leg warmers. While I was buying the fabric for the dress I grabbed a couple of balls of wool in red and yellow for these and some matching arm bands (which you can find a tutorial for in part four).

These leg warmers are designed to start just above the knee and finished at the ankle with a flare – if you want a different length, say starting just below the knee, you’ll have to bare this into consideration when you are measuring.

Measuring:

Everyone knits at different tensions and of course many factors such as needle size and wool type / size makes a difference to the size of each finished piece. To ensure the correct measurement of these pieces I first knitted myself a test patch 30 stitches x 30 rows and measured this piece to roughly work out how much I would need for each leg warmer using the same wool and needles. I worked out that approximately 4 stitches would yield an inch in width and as far as the length goes I was happy to keep measuring the piece as I knitted until it was the desired length.

I got my daughter to stand straight and still, measured her from the knee downward and around her ankle at the point I wanted the leg warmers to flare around and…

…Heres the basic knit pattern I used for each piece (which of course will be subject to your alterations as necessary but as with the dress pattern, I am hoping these details will give you an idea).

To create a piece roughly 13″ x 13″

(Explanation of measurements: 13″ x 13″ will achieved a rough square of knit. The top will be folded over to create a turn over of around 1.5″. Once sewed together to create a tube for the warmer the piece will be attached together along a diagonal, the bottom to be flared as so will measure the 13″ knitted and the top to be cut to size and elasticated to fit the smaller circumference of the top of her knee – if this is too confusing, don’t panic, read ahead as the pictures will help explain this better as the tutorial continues.)

  • Size 4.5 mm Needles
  • Wool, 100% Acrylic Aran Wool
  • Cast on in Red; 50 Stitches

(If you’re new to knitting, this video tutorial will show you how to cast on with one needle)

  • Row 1: Pearl all in red
  • Row 2: Knit all in red
  • Row 3: Pearl all in red
  • Row 4: Knit all in red
  • Row 5: Pearl all in red
  • Row 6: Knit all in red
  • Row 7: Knit all in red (this is where the fold of the turn-over at the top of the leg warmer will be created – just like the top of a sock!)
  • Row 8: Pearl all in red
  • Row 9: Knit all in red
  • Row 10: Pearl all in red
  • Row 11: Knit all in red
  • Row 12: Pearl all in red

Now add your yellow wool: Here’s another video to show you how:

  • Row 13: Knit in yellow
  • Row 14: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 15: Knit in yellow
  • Row 16: Pearl in yellow

From this point in, until the very end you’ll be knitting four rows in red (K,P,K,P) and four in yellow (K,P,K,P) to create your stripes. remember.

  • Row 17: Knit in red
  • Row 18: Pearl in red
  • Row 19: Knit in red
  • Row 20: Knit in red
  • Row 21: Knit in yellow
  • Row 22: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 23: Knit in yellow
  • Row 24: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 25: Knit in red
  • Row 26: Pearl in red
  • Row 27: Knit in red
  • Row 28: Knit in red
  • Row 29: Knit in yellow
  • Row 30: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 31: Knit in yellow
  • Row 32: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 33: Knit in red
  • Row 34: Pearl in red
  • Row 35: Knit in red
  • Row 36: Knit in red
  • Row 37: Knit in yellow
  • Row 38: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 39: Knit in yellow
  • Row 40: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 41: Knit in red
  • Row 42: Pearl in red
  • Row 43: Knit in red
  • Row 44: Knit in red
  • Row 45: Knit in yellow
  • Row 46: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 47: Knit in yellow
  • Row 48: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 49: Knit in red
  • Row 50: Pearl in red
  • Row 51: Knit in red
  • Row 52: Knit in red
  • Row 53: Knit in yellow
  • Row 54: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 55: Knit in yellow
  • Row 56: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 57: Knit in red
  • Row 58: Pearl in red
  • Row 59: Knit in red
  • Row 60: Knit in red
  • Row 61: Knit in yellow
  • Row 62: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 63: Knit in yellow
  • Row 64: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 65: Knit in red
  • Row 66: Pearl in red
  • Row 67: Knit in red
  • Row 68: Knit in red
  • Row 69: Knit in yellow
  • Row 70: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 71: Knit in yellow
  • Row 72: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 73: Knit in red
  • Row 74: Cast off on a pearl

(This way I have a small strip of red at the end for stitching the ruffled trim along the bottom.)

If your pieces are curling up at  the edges you can take a cool iron and with a damp tea towel on top of each piece gently iron out until your pieces are easier to work with.

Next I pinned over my turn overs which will form the top piece of each leg warmer

and carefully stitched them into place

At this point I’d like to make it clear that if you prefer to hand sew these together with a large wool needle and wool that’s absolutely fine. Using the machine is simply a personal preference of mine and there are no hard and fast rules here. The wool here is much thicker than fabric that would normally go through a machine so I sewed this piece with the foot up and turned the wheel manually by hand.

Remembering the measurement I’d taken and jotted down of the circumference of the area just above my daughters knee where I want the top of the warmer to sit and allowing around 1″ – 1.5″ extras since the area will be elasticated I folded the piece in half with the reverse on the outside and pinned at a diagonal to form my flare.

I stitched along this line using a machine like before and trimmed the excess

I then hand sewed the edges to ensure the piece holds together and doesn’t fray

If, unlike me, you are really good at knitting then you could easily knock up a piece that was flared without cutting down and stitching like this. If you’re terrible at knitting you could just make the leg warmers with fabric.

Even though I’ve stitched the openings of the top fold together I can still insert my elastic by using a safety-pin and threading it through one of the holes in the knit itself at the point of the stitch line on the inside.

Once I have it all the way round, exit the fold in the same way and tie the elastic together at the back, trim the excess and tuck into the back of the leg warmer.

To finish the piece, add a red silky ruffled trim around the bottom in the same way as I showed you on the dress in part two of this tutorial

Stich along the red edge that you allowed yourself while knitting

Do the same for the second warmer and voila! Two super cute and funky 70’s style clown striped leg warmers!

Don’t forget to check out part nine below to see them with the full outfit!

If you’re completely new to knitting Video Jug has a great selection of video tutorials from the real basics to the pro stuff: Click here to visit Video Jug

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Clowning Around: Part One: The Pattern

Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

Clowning Around: Part Three: The Underskirt

Clowning Around: Part Four: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Five: Knitted Armbands

Clowning Around: Part Six: Bow Tie

Clowning Around: Part Seven: Hair Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Eight: Baton with Swirly Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Nine: Full Materials Needed Breakdown

Clowning Around: Part Ten: Final Full Outfit Images

Clowning Around: Part Eleven: The Carnival Parade Goes Live!

(Please Note: This tutorial is presently still a work in progress and not all of the parts are available yet, please either bookmark the homepage or follow us through Networked Blogs, the WordPress RSS Feed, hit the email subscription box on the right column, or add us on Facebook or Twitter for regular updates. Thank You.)

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Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

With my patterns measured, drawn up, cut out and ready I ran straight out and got my fabrics. I found the most perfect multi-coloured spotty on white cotton print fabric for the main dress, a couple of funky big red buttons and some beautiful silky bright red for the trim. I already had a couple of fat quarters in yellow and blue lying around that I knew would work. For a full breakdown of all the materials needed for this project please see below to navigate all the parts of this tutorial.

I started by cutting out the panels for the main body of the dress (front, sides x4 and back), I pinned these together leaving one side open and sewed.

I pinned in my zipper along the side starting at the waist just before the skirt flares out and finishing about an inch below the armpit hole.

I stitched it in place and finished the rest of the main body: tops of arms, side panel around zip and trimmed excess thread.

At this point I got my daughter back on her chair and tried it on for size, it’s best to make any necessary adjustments at this stage.

Fortunately in this case it was a perfect fit and so we continue…

Next step is to add the sleeves of which two pieces have been cut out suing my pattern.

To achieve a poofy sleeve effect, I pinned each sleeve like this:

  • Points 1 and 4 at the base of the armpit opening.
  • The dotted line between points 1 and 4 left open for the sleeve opening
  • I folded points 2 and 3 over to fin the centre point and pinned this to the top part of the armpit opening
  • what I had left was an excess of material from the sleeve in relation to the pieces left on the opening I was pinning to: this allowed me enough excess to fold over the sleeve piece to create a gathered effect.

Take your time with the pinning of this piece until you have it just right, it may be subject to some re-adjustment until it’s gathered equally on both sides. It’s not an exact science and doesn’t have to be perfect however so don’t fret too much.

Once you are happy with your pinned piece stitch together remembering to leave the opening at the bottom.

Repeat with the other sleeve.

I now have the basic dress complete, it’s time to add trimmings.

Firstly I added a yellow strip of fabric to trim the sleeves.

Here’s how:

I cut out strips from my yellow fat quarter 1.5″ wide(since I was cutting from a fat quarter my strips were 22″ long – I found that one strip of this length was enough for a dress the size I am doing).

(The blue piece of fabric you can see on this picture is a piece I’ve cut in preparation for the breast panel – the yellow strip will be added to this aswell as the sleeves so you may aswell do them both at the same time)

What I need to do with these yellow strips of fabric is create a long piece that’s like bias tape (of course you are welcome to just skip this step and simply buy bias tape but I’m all about saving money and doing what you can yourself from what you already have).

Using an iron, iron the strip in half lengthways:

You can now use this centre line to fold each side into

Iron out the first centre line you created using a spritz of water if needed and you have your bias tape effect

Pin a hemline around the sleeve openings

attach your yellow strip as pictured

and sew…

You should have enough left over to attach to your breast panel piece which you can pin and stitch like so

Now my yellow trimming has been dealt with I am going to add some red silky ruffles around the neckline, sleeves and skirt.

To achieve this rather than using yards and yards of ribbon instead  bought one meter of a red mock silk fabric and cut out 3″ wide strips using a cardboard template I’d made.

I then pinned the strips together in half lengthways (not sure of exactly how many strips I would need, I simply made them as I went along)

To add the red ruffles to the neckline, I first pinned the hem all the way around (note how I’ve marked the centre point at the front so I can attach the fold of the ruffles in opposing directions from this point).

I began attaching my red fabric using folds at around every 2″ to create this pretty gathered and ruffled effect.

before stitching this trimming I popped in the breast panel like this

Using red thread I stitched all the way around to attach the trim and the breast panel.

It’s all coming together rather nicely now isn’t it!

I did the same with the sleeves, attaching the red ruffle to the yellow strips

and again all along the bottom of the skirt

Adding a New Red Strip to the Ruffled Trim: My long strips were not quite long enough to go all the way round the neckline or skirting on one go so there were instances where I had to add a new strip as  went along.

To do this I simply pinned and stitched my next strip along the inside

and incorporated the area where the stitching could be seen into one of the folds in the ruffle.

After another quick fitting I tweaked the edges of the breast panel which  discovered to be a tough baggy.

and the dress component of this costume is finished!

Isn’t it pretty!

I’ll add the buttons to it before the final photo shoot.

Now we really need to go for it with the accessories which will really “clown-it-up” – more parts of this tutorial can be navigated below.

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Clowning Around: Part One: The Pattern

Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

Clowing Around: Part Three: The Underskirt

Clowning Around: Part Four: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Five: Knitted Armbands

Clowning Around: Part Six: Bow Tie

Clowning Around: Part Seven: Hair Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Eight: Baton with Swirly Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Nine: Full Materials Needed Breakdown

Clowning Around: Part Ten: Final Full Outfit Images

Clowning Around: Part Eleven: The Carnival Parade Goes Live!

(Please Note: This tutorial is presently still a work in progress and not all of the parts are available yet, please either bookmark the homepage or follow us through Networked Blogs, the WordPress RSS Feed, hit the email subscription box on the right column, or add us on Facebook or Twitter for regular updates. Thank You.)

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Clowning Around: Part One: The Dress Pattern

How exciting, my 3-year-old daughter is going to be on a carnival float with her dance troop. They want all the little kiddies in circus themed outfits so I’ve decided to make her a pretty little clown outfit based on this quick sketch:

To post the entire tutorial on one go would prove to be too lengthy so I’ll separate it into parts. This is part one:

Making the Pattern:

I stood her on a chair and asked her to hold her arms parallel to the floor while I did a few quick measurements. (She’s tall like her Dad so she measures larger than the standard length for a 3-year-old).

I measured down her back and front, around her waist and what drop of the skirt I’d like from her waist downwards making notes of these measurements as I went along.

The Fiber Gypsy has a great little online chart with standard children’s measurements here which you may find useful.

Then I quickly sketched out the basic shape of each of the dress panels like this:

The aim is a 1950’s style fitted dress with a poofy skirt and sleeves – it’ll be the fabrics and embellishments I choose that make it “clowny”.

Then I sellotaped pieces of A4 paper together and began measuring out my pattern (course if you have paper larger than A4 sellotape wouldn’t be necessary)

There is no allowance for hems on the patterns I have made here so when cutting out fabric I shall allow around 1/4 – 1/2″ all around for my hemlines. If you prefer your pattern to include hem allowance you’ll have to consider this when drawing them out.

If you prefer, dressmakers tracing, pattern and carbon paper is available to buy at most good haberdashery shops. Personally I don’t see the need for such a simple project but for more complicated projects paper like this would be very handy indeed.

This is probably the most basic pattern in the history of all mankind but I really don’t see the point of over complicating things if there’s no need.

Boring Measurements Info:

This is all based on exactly what you see above – measured for my daughter and will of course be subject to your own adjustments, hopefully these measurements should give you a general idea of where to go.

Front Panel:

  • Across Waist: 5.5″
  • Down Chest: 6″
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

(The angle of the skirt was drawn by sight to give a rough taper)

You will need to cut out one of these pieces.

Side Panels:

  • Armhole Depth: 5″
  • Across waist: 3″
  • Down Sides: 6″
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

(The curve of the armhole was drawn by hand)

You will need to cut out 4 of these – 2 on one side and a further two using the pattern reversed.

Breast Panel:

  • 1.75″ Wide
  • 7.5″ Long at Longest Point
  • 6.5″ Long at Shortest Point

(The curve at either side was drawn by hand and the piece folded in half when cutting out for symmetry.)

You need to cut out one of these pieces.

Back Panel:

  • Across Waist: 5.5″
  • Down Back: 9″ (with a slight curve drawn towards the middle of the back)
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

You will need to cut out one of these pieces.

Sleeves:

Use the side panel pattern piece to draw the curve of the sleeve sides, cut straight along the bottom and a domed curve across the top

  • Across the Bottom: 11″
  • Width (from widest part): 7 1/4″

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Now I have my pattern cut and ready I’m off to buy some fabric!

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Clowning Around: Part One: The Pattern

Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

Clowning Around: Part Three: The Underskirt

Clowning Around: Part Four: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Five: Knitted Armbands

Clowning Around: Part Six: Bow Tie

Clowning Around: Part Seven: Hair Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Eight: Baton with Swirly Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Nine: Full Materials Needed Breakdown

Clowning Around: Part Ten: Final Full Outfit Images

Clowning Around: Part Eleven: The Carnival Parade Goes Live!

(Please Note: This tutorial is presently still a work in progress and not all of the parts are available yet, please either bookmark the homepage or follow us through Networked Blogs, the WordPress RSS Feed, hit the email subscription box on the right column, or add us on Facebook or Twitter for regular updates. Thank You.)

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Edible Teacups!

Today’s the day of our Alice in Wonderland themed tea party. I just knocked up these little beauties and am quite tickled by how wonderful they look…

Here’s how to make your own:

What you Need:

  • Ice Cream Cones
  • Biscuits
  • Jelly Ring Sweets
  • Sweets to Fill the “Cups”

With a knife, cut the tops off your ice cream cones (do this carefully as they are brittle and you need to achieve a straight cut so they don’t topple over).

Cut a jelly ring in half and stick it on to the side of your cone top to form the teacup handle (the inside of the sweet is sticky and so will hold fast just fine).

Pop, you teacup on a biscuit “saucer” and fill with sweets. Job done!

How cute are these?

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We’d love to see your own creations, send your photos to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

lilypchic@hotmail.co.uk

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.

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Egg and Dairy Free Cupcakes

Fairy Toadstools

Shabby Chic Bunting

Egg and Dairy Free Chocolate Cupcakes!

My eldest daughter is allergic to dairy and eggs, even the smallest amount can result in a nasty facial eczema which can be rather upsetting for her.

You can only imagine then how utterly delighted she was when I came up with this recipe through a fair amount of trial and error for totally egg and dairy free chocolate cupcakes (with butter-style frosting none the less!). My friends have told me that if I hadn’t said they would have been none the wiser.

So, to make a start on the latest section to the Lily P Chic blog ~ “Recipes” here’s my:

Egg-less, Milk-less and Butter-less Chocolate Cupcakes.

What You Need:

Ingredients (for around 12 cupcakes):

(For the cakes)

  • 1 and a half cups of Self Raising Flour
  • 1/3 cup Cocoa Powder
  • 1 tsp Bicarbonate of Soda
  • 1/2 tsp Salt
  • 1 cup Sugar
  • 1/2 Cup Vegetable or Sunflower oil
  • 1 cup Cold Water
  • 2 tsp vanilla Extract
  • 2 tsp Vinegar

(For the frosting)

  • 1/3 cup Dairy Free Margarine
  • 1/4 tsp Salt
  • 1 tsp Vanilla Extract
  • 3 and a half Cups Icing Sugar
  • 3 to 4 tbsp Soya Milk
  • Food Colouring
  • Sprinkles / Silver Balls / Decorative Items etc

Equipment:

  • Paper Cupcake Cases
  • Mixing Bowls
  • Whisk (Hand or Electric)
  • Measuring Cups & Spoons
  • Bun Oven Tray
  • Cooling Rack

Method:

Pre-heat your oven to 375 degrees (gas mark 5)

Sieve all the dry ingredients for the cakes into a bowl

Mix gently and then create a well in the middle where you can add your wet ingredients (leave out the vinegar at this stage)

Mix everything together until smooth and silky. Add the vinegar and stir through until mixed evenly.

Spoon out equal parts into bun cases and pop in the oven for 25 – 30 minutes.

Allow your cakes to completely cool on a wire rack before topping with frosting.

To Make the Frosting:

Cream the dairy free marg, sugar, salt and vanilla until light and fluffy. Add the soya milk to achieve a smooth consistency. Separate the mixture into a bowl for each colour you intend to make, add a few drops of food colouring to each batch and mix well.

Spread a decent spoonful of frosting onto each cupcake and let your children decorate.

My baby girls first birthday cupcake cake!

A batch I took to the Mother and Baby group on my daughter’s first birthday to celebrate. the kids loved them (and the Mum’s did too).

Later today I’ll be using this recipe to make a large cake for my Mum’s birthday – Once it’s finished I’ll add some pictures.

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We’d love to see your own cakes, send your photos to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

lilypchic@hotmail.co.uk

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.

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Flying Fish

Make Your Own: Towel Cake

Make Your Own: Hand-Me-Down Quilted Patchwork Blanket / Throw

This simple to make yet gorgeous piece will be so special once it’s finished that it could end up being a family heirloom passed down generations, and even if it doesn’t you will be sure to cherish it for many years to come.


Kids grow so fast don’t they, how many times have you dusted off your daughters pretty party dress or your son’s best shirt for a special occasion only to discover it no longer fits them. Certain items of your children’s clothing inevitably develop sentimental value and it’s often heartbreaking when you have to give them al away.

Instead, why not make this beautiful hand-me-down quilted patchwork blanket and create what is sure to be a truly treasured piece.

What You Will Need:

  • Sewing Machine (or Needle & Thread)
  • Selection of your Child’s Outgrown Clothing
  • Card
  • Tape Measure or Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Toy Stuffing

Please Note: This project is designed to be a “work-in-progress” and is a piece you will often return to as your child grows.

How To Make It:

  • From the card, cut out yourself a square template that you will use to measure out each patch. Around 5″x5″ (12.5cm x 12.5cm) is a good size. Allow an extra 1 – 2 cm along the edges when cutting out the fabric for your hem.

  • Using the template cut out x 2 squares from each item of clothing you have – One square will be the front of the patch and a plainer section for the back. (Be creative when selecting your front patch piece. make use of pockets buttons, patches, lettering, seams, labels etc to make each patch as unique and as interesting as possible.)

  • Pin your pieces together reverse side up, sew around leaving a small 1.5 – 2″ gap along one side to turn out. trim the corners, turn it out – press the patch if needed and fill with a good handful of stuffing. Repeat this until you have a few patches complete.

  • Begin building the quilt by sewing the patches together, sealing the holes you left for turning out as you do so.
  • Keep going until you have used your batch of clothing and come back to the blanket when you have a new batch of grown out clothes.

In no time at all, your blanket will be large enough to use and you can still continue to add to it until it’s reached your desired size.

Suggestion: If the piece you want to use doesn’t yield enough fabric for a patch you can use a plain white cotton for the back instead.

Special Patches

The beauty of this blanket is that each patch tells a story, and fits into the timeline of your childs life, creating a truly unique and special piece:

Baby’s First Outfit

Christmas Outfit

Fist Day at School

Birthday Dress

Outfit from Granny and Grandad

Bib from First Proper Meal

Outfit Took First Steps in

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We’d love to see the blankets you are working on, send your photos to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

lilypchic@hotmail.co.uk

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.

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How to Make Your Own: Towel Cake

A cute and unique gift that you can make yourself in a few simple steps from this free tutorial from Lily P Chic… Enjoy!

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What You Will Need:

  • One Small Bath Towel
  • One Hand Towel
  • 1.5m Cellophane (available from most reputable florists)
  • Florists Bow to Finish
  • 2 – 3m Length of 1.5″ Width Ribbon
  • Cardboard
  • Tissue Paper
  • Safety Pins
  • Sellotape
  • Scissors
  • Selection of Items to Fill the Towel Cake With

The items used in the example comprise a selection of pampering and beauty items but you can use anything depending on the person who is receiving the gift and the occasion. New born baby products for a birth, sexy underwear for a wedding night or valentines day, chocolates and bubble bath for Mothers Day, even football accessories for the footie season! The possibilities are endless!

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Step One:

Use a large plate as a template to draw around and cut out a cardboard circle. Do the same again with a smaller plate so that you have a large and a small cardboard circle.

Step Two:

Cover each circle in colourful tissue or wrapping paper securing it with sellotape or glue.

Step Three:

Place your length of cellophane on a flat surface and begin building your cake with the largest tier at the bottom. Start with your large cardboard circle and fold the large towel over until you have the desired height (around 4″ should be fine). Tuck the towel ends into itself and place onto the circle (secure with safety pins if you feel this will provide extra support).

Step Four:

Secure with half your ribbon and begin filling with your items.

Step Five:

Place the smaller circle on top of your first tier and build your second tier in the same way as the first. Secure with the rest of the ribbon and fill with your remaining items.

Step Six:

Loosely pull the four corners of your cellophane upwards into a bunch and secure with your finishing ribbon. Et voila… One Towel Cake!

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You can fill your cake with sweets for younger children:

Or use white cellophane for a bridal shower gift:

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We’d love to see your own towel cakes, send your photos of your finished pieces to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

lilypchic@hotmail.co.uk

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.

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Fabric Envelopes

Hand-Me-Down Blanket