I’ve been doing a lot of knitting lately, I’ve always enjoyed it, it gives you something to do with your hands on an evening rather than eating share bags of crisps and putting the pounds on and my whole family benefits with an array of colourful hand knitted socks, scarfs, hats, gloves, jumpers, blankets etc. Hand knitted goods also make brilliant birthday and christmas presents, your loved ones will really appreciate the personal touch you get from knowing you’ve taken the time to make them a present and you save money into the bargain!
I was fortunate enough to have a mother who knits – she taught me from an early age and I can’t ever really remember not knowing how to do it – but so many of my friends tell me they are utterly clueless (but would love to know) how to do it for themselves. So in honor of all my not-so-knitty friends heres a step-by-step guide to knitting compiled from a variety of sources including my own know-how. It’s been designed so that you can scan-read through the text and cherry pick the best parts and/or the parts that are relevant to yourself rather than a read-in-it’s-entirety knid of guide. I’ll start here with the basics and add more advanced techniques in time.
Knitting Needles and Wool
Knitting needles are available in a wide variety of materials: aluminum, plastic, and other fabricated substances, along with natural woods. You can make your own needles out of dowels sharpened on one end. Or you can buy rare antique, sterling silver, or gold-plated needles, or even needles with the ends adorned with precious gems. Whichever you choose, just know they all knit the same, and all can get lost in the cushions of the couch.
Novice knitters may prefer to use needles of bamboo or wood because the stitches are less likely to slide off. These materials help grip the stitches. With experience, you’ll find a type or brand of knitting needle that becomes your favorite. To begin, it’s a good idea to buy an inexpensive pair that appeals to you and start from there.
Needles come in a range of sizes, from a very tiny size 0 (you don’t want to start with these!) all the way up to size 50 (you’ll only use these in rare instances for specialty projects). Knitting patterns include a suggested needle size. You won’t know the actual size you need to work the pattern until after you make your gauge swatch.
There are three styles of knitting needles: straight (single-point), circular, and double-point needles. The most common style is straight, single-point. These needles are sold in pairs and are available in both 10- and 14-inch lengths. They have a knob on the end opposite the point to prevent stitches from slipping off. The needle size is sometimes stamped on the knob or on the needle shank. Straight needles are best suited to working back and forth in rows to make a flat piece of knitting.
To avoid sewing seams, you can work in rounds using circular needles. Circular needles consist of two short needles connected by a thin, plastic cable. When choosing circular needles, look at the place where the cable connects to the needle. It should be smooth so stitches glide easily from cable to needle. Circular needles are available in most ordinary sizes, with cable lengths of 16, 20, 24, 29, and 36 inches. Use a length that comfortably holds the number of stitches you are using. Circular needles are used for seamless, knit-in-the-round items, but they can be used to knit flat pieces as well.
The third type is double-pointed needles. These short needles have an identical point on each end, and either end is used to knit. Double-pointed needles are usually sold in sets of 4 or 5 and are available in lengths from 6 to 8 inches. Shorter lengths are available for making socks or gloves. This type of needle is best used for knitting in the round or for making I-cords or other small, flat items made with few stitches.
In the next section, we’ll discuss the variety of yarn available for knitting and how to choose one that will work best for your project.
(Taken From: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-knit1.htm)
Most knitting patterns are pretty clear when it comes to telling you what size knitting needles you will need. That makes sense, because the designer wants you to be able to successfully recreate the project.
Sometimes, however, when you get a pattern from a country other than the one you live in, you might find a number that doesn’t make a lot of sense to you. Instead of seeing US size 9, for example, you might see 5.5 mm, or even British size 5.
If a pattern includes all of these numbers you’ve got no problem, but if the only number listed is one you aren’t familiar with, you need a needle conversion chart.
Here is a list of the most common sizes of knitting needles in metric, UK and US measurements. If you find a pattern with a number you don’t understand, consult this list and you’ll be fine.
Why Does Size Matter?
The size of the needle affects how big your stitches, and thus your finished product, will be. The concept of gauge, or how many stitches fit into an inch of knitting, relies heavily on the size of the needles. In fact, if your gauge doesn’t match what the pattern calls for, the way to fix it is to change the size of your needles.
The world would be a simpler place if there were a standard for knitting needle sizes, but in fact there are three. The British and American versions are basically opposites, with the American system starting with low numbers for needles with smaller diameters and working up to larger numbers for larger diameters, while the British system starts with high numbers for low diameters and low numbers for high diameters.
The metric measurements indicate the diameter of the needle in millimeters. The only place the American and British numbering systems agree is at 4.5 mm; both countries call that a size 7.
If you don’t think size matters, try knitting a swatch on a size 10 American set of needles and a size 10 British set. You’ll get two quite different results!
Knitting Needle Conversion Chart
(Taken From about.com http://knitting.about.com/od/toolsandsupplies/a/needlesize.htm)
Everyone evolves their own personal way of holding knitting needles and yarn but it is still useful to know how to start.
Right hand needle Hold the right needle as if you were holding a pencil. When casting on and working the first few rows, pass the knitted piece over the hand between the thumb and index finger. As work progresses, let the thumb slide under the knitted piece, grasping the needle from below (Fig.12).
Left hand needle Hold the left needle lightly over its top, using the thumb and index finger to control the tip of the needle (Fig.13).
Holding the yarn
Method 1 Holding the yarn in the right hand, pass the yarn under the little finger, then round the same finger, over the third finger, under the centre finger and over the index finger. Use the index finger to pass the yarn round the needle tip. The tension on the yarn is controlled by the yarn circled round the little finger (Fig.14).
Method 2 Holding the yarn in the right hand, pass it under the little finger, over the third finger, under the centre finger and over the index finger. Use the index finger to pass the yarn round the needle tip. The tension is controlled by gripping the yarn in the crook of the little finger (Fig.15).
Taken From: http://www.learn2knit.co.uk/knitting/holding.php)
Choosing Your Wool
The only thing more fun than finishing the last stitch of a project is choosing the yarn you’ll use for the next one. There is a huge selection of yarns and colors available, and choosing one can be the most difficult part of your project. Arm yourself with the following information, and you’ll be sure to choose yarn that you love and is perfect for your project.
Once you find a pattern you like, read the materials list carefully. It tells you everything you need to know about the yarn you’ll be using. Most patterns specify the exact brand and color used, which makes shopping much easier. Check with your local yarn shop to see if they carry that yarn, and in what colors. If they don’t, they should be able to suggest an alternative. Or search for the yarn at one of the many online shops.
When substituting yarn, always choose a yarn from within the same weight category, that is a similar fiber, and has a similar gauge. Once you know these three things, you can consider other brands of yarn to substitute.
The pattern tells you what weight of yarn to use. Yarn weight falls into several categories. The basic five are: fingering, sport, DK, worsted, and bulky. Fingering, or baby, weight yarn is very fine. It’s often used for socks, lacework, and baby clothes. Sport weight yarn is heavier than fingering weight and can be used for almost anything, including afghans, baby items, crafts, and sweaters.
DK weight stands for double knit and is thicker than sport weight. It is primarily a European yarn weight, though several American companies are now importing it under their own company name. Worsted weight is the most commonly used yarn. It’s used for sweaters, afghans, pillows, and many other items. It works up quickly and is a good weight for new knitters. Bulky, or chunky, weight yarn is used for rugs, coats, and heavy sweaters. It is thick and heavy and works up very quickly on extra-large needles.
Within each of these categories are all sorts of yarn made from many different fibers. The fiber most often associated with knitting is wool. Wool is a beautiful, durable yarn that is a pleasure to work with and holds its shape well. Check the fabric care symbols on the label carefully — many wools aren’t machine washable. Before you choose wool, make sure you’re willing to care for it properly.
Cotton yarns are very popular because they make a cool and comfortable product. Cotton is usually labeled as hand-wash only. Blends are any imaginable combination of fibers, including natural and synthetic. While most knitters prefer natural fibers, synthetics have their advantages. They are often inexpensive, readily available, offer a wide color selection, and are easy to care for.
Choose a yarn that’s right for your pattern and based on your personal taste. A good tip is to buy one ball or skein (called the ball from here on) of the yarn you want to use before starting the project. Knit up a large swatch in the stitch pattern, and wash or dry-clean it in the same manner you’ll use for your finished project. You’ll learn several things from this experiment: your gauge, if you like working with the yarn, if the yarn shrinks or stretches after cleaning, and, most important, if the dye runs.
The next question is “How much yarn do I buy?” That information is found in the pattern materials list and on the yarn label. If you buy the brand the pattern calls for, simply check to see how many balls are needed for the size you’re making.
When substituting yarns, first determine if the new yarn ball has the same number of yards or meters as the pattern yarn. Check the yarn label to see how many yards or meters the ball contains, and divide this number into the total yardage needed to determine how many balls you need. Round this number up to the nearest ball to make sure you’ll have enough yarn.
Before purchasing, check the dye lot number on every ball of yarn you’ve selected. Yarn is dyed in huge lots, or batches. When distributed to retail stores, dye lots are often mixed together. You may not be able to see any difference when comparing two different dye lots in the store, but after completing a project, you’ll realize just how “off” two balls of “Off-White” can be. The probability of buying or finding matching dye lots months later is unlikely. Check each dye lot number, and buy all the yarn you’ll need before you start your project. You’ll be very glad you did.
Now that you have your yarn and needles, you’re ready to get started! Learn all about casting on stitches in the next section.
(Taken From: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-knit2.htm)
When you go into a yarn shop or crafts store, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by all the choices. Which yarn is right for your project? Most people stick to the exact type (and even the color!) of yarn suggested in the pattern, but that’s not much fun.
It’s also not necessary as long as you understand something about yarn weights.
The Standard Yarn Weight System
Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn. It’s a range, from super fine to super bulky. There are six different categories of yarn weights, and according to the Craft Yarn Council of America, specific weights of yarn should produce a somewhat predictable number of stitches when using a particular sized needle.
The higher the number, the heavier the yarn and the fewer stitches per inch you will get.
Why Standards Matter
This is where knitting gets fun. If you know that every bulky yarn is going to give you around the same number of stitches (in this case, 12 to 15 stitches in four inches on size 9 to 11 needles) and you have a pattern that uses bulky yarn and size 10 needles, you can buy any kind of bulky yarn and get a similar result.
It is, of course, essential that you knit up a gauge swatch before you start work on a project that involves sizing, because not all yarns of a certain weight are exactly the same. The difference between 12 stitches per four inches and 15 stitches is still pretty huge when you’re trying to make a sweater fit.
Determining Yarn Weight
Most yarn manufacturers make it easy for you to determine the weight of a particular yarn. Many of the mass-produced yarns use the yarn standards ranking system and will have the number and weight printed right on the label.
Other manufacturers don’t make it as easy, but they should have a gauge statement that will say something like “24 stitches and 22 rows per four inches on size four needles.” If you know a little bit about yarn weights (which you will when you consult the chart below) you’ll know that the yarn in question is sport weight.
|Yarn Weight||1: Super Fine||2: Fine||3: Light||4: Medium||5: Bulky||6: Super Bulky|
|Yarns in Category||Baby, Fingering, Sock||Baby, Sport||DK, Light, Worsted||Afghan, Aran, Worsted||Chunky, Craft, Rug||Bulky, Roving|
|Needle Size (US)||1-3||3-5||5-7||7-9||9-11||11 and up|
|Average stitches per 4 inches||27-32||23-26||21-24||16-20||12-15||6-11|
(Taken From http://knitting.about.com/od/yarn/a/yarnweight.htm)
The cast-on row is the foundation row of knitting. There are many ways to cast on stitches. One method may be faster or easier for you or may work better for certain techniques, such as buttonholes. Try each of the cast-on methods below, and start with the one that appeals to you most.
Note: The cast-on should be as elastic as the body of your knitting. If needed, the cast-on may be worked using a needle two or three sizes larger than your gauge needle. Knit the stitches onto the smaller needle as you knit the first row.
Making a Slipknot
The first stitch on your needle for most cast-on methods is a slipknot.
Step 1: Hold the yarn in your left hand about 8 inches from the end. With your right hand, make a circle with the yarn (fig. 1a). If it’s helpful, hold the circle together between your index finger and thumb to prevent it from slipping away.
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1a
Step 2: With the working yarn behind the circle, insert the knitting needle through the circle from front to back and catch the working yarn, pulling it through the circle and forming a loop (fig. 1b).
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1b
Step 3: With the new loop on the needle in your right hand, gently pull both yarns (the tail and the working yarn attached to the ball) beneath the needle, then pull on the working yarn to tighten the new loop so that it fits snuggly around the needle (fig. 1c).
Making a Slipknot: Figure 1c
This cast-on is especially good when you need a firm edge. Work loosely, without pulling the stitches too tight.
Step 1: In your left hand, hold the needle with the slipknot and hold the working yarn in your right hand. Insert the right needle through the slipknot from front to back (fig. 2a).
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2a
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front and pull up a loop, creating a new stitch on the right needle. Insert the left needle tip into the new stitch (fig. 2b), and slip it onto the left needle.
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2b
There are now 2 stitches on the left needle (fig. 2c). Note: To prevent the cast-on edge from becoming too tight, insert the right needle from front to back between the 2 stitches on the left needle before tightening the yarn. Gently pull the working yarn to snug up the stitch.
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2c
Step 3: With the right needle in position between the 2 stitches on the left needle, wrap the yarn around the right needle as shown (fig. 2c), and pull through a new loop.
Step 4: Using the tip of the left needle, slip the new stitch from the right needle as before (fig. 2d), and slip the right needle out of the stitch.
Cable Cast-on: Figure 2d
Repeat steps 3 and 4 to cast on additional stitches. End with step 4 to complete the last cast-on stitch.
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on
The benefits of this cast-on method are that it’s quick to do and makes an elastic edge. Both working yarn and tail are used.
The tail length should be roughly three times the width of your desired cast-on, or about 1 inch (2.5cm) per stitch for worsted weight yarn, plus several inches extra for the yarn tail allowance to weave in later. If you underestimate the length of yarn tail needed, pull out the work, add more yarn to the length, and begin again. Or, begin the cast-on using two balls of the same yarn: One serves as the “tail,” and the other is the working yarn. Tie the ends together in an overhand knot, leaving about a 6-inch (15cm) tail, and then make the slipknot as usual and begin the cast-on. When the cast-on is completed, cut one of the yarns, leaving about 6 inches (15cm), and begin to work with the other. When the garment is finished, untie the overhand knot and weave in the loose ends.
Step 1: Place the slipknot onto the needle held in your right hand, with the yarn tail in front (closest to you) and the working yarn (attached to the ball) behind the needle. Pull the working yarn taut over the left forefinger, and wrap the yarn tail around your thumb from front to back. Secure both the working yarn and the tail between the remaining 3 fingers of your left hand and the palm. Place the forefinger of your right hand on top of the slipknot to hold it in place (fig. 3a).
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3a
Step 2: Insert the needle under the yarn in front of your thumb, working from front to back and pulling the yarn slightly upward (fig. 3b). Insert the needle over the yarn on your forefinger, moving from top to bottom so the working yarn lies on top of the needle to form the new stitch (fig. 3b).
Long Tail (or Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3b
Step 3: Pull the needle toward you through the loop on your thumb as you remove your thumb from the loop (fig. 3c). At the same time, pull down on both pieces of yarn, tightening the stitch by pulling on the tail, keeping the stitch firm and even but still loose enough to slide easily.
Long Tail (Slingshot) Cast-on: Figure 3c
Repeat steps to cast on additional stitches.
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on)
This cast-on is probably the easiest to learn, but it doesn’t have a neat edge like other cast-ons. Use it when working a few cast-on stitches or on buttonholes. This cast-on tends to grow longer and become less manageable as you work the first row of knitting, and the cast-on stitches tighten, making it difficult to insert the needle.
Step 1: Place the slipknot on an empty needle with the yarn tail in back and the working yarn in front. Hold this needle with the slipknot in your right hand.
Step 2: With working yarn in your left hand, wrap the working yarn over your thumb from front to back, and grasp it with your remaining fingers to tension (fig. 4a).
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on): Figure 4a
Step 3: Insert the needle under the yarn looped around your thumb, working from bottom to top (fig. 4b). Pull up on the needle a little as you slide the yarn off your thumb and onto the needle.
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on): Figure 4b
Step 4: Gently pull on the working yarn to tighten the new stitch on the needle (fig. 4c).
Simple Cast-on (Backward Loop Cast-on): Figure 4c
Repeat steps 2-4 to cast on as many stitches as desired. End with step 4.
This cast-on is easy to work and is very similar to the cable cast-on. The difference between the cable cast-on and the knitted cast-on occurs after the first stitch is made.
Step 1: Place the slipknot on an empty needle and hold in your left hand, with the working yarn in your right hand. Insert the right needle through the slipknot from front to back (see fig. 2a above).
Step 2: Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front, and pull up a loop, creating a new stitch on the right needle. Insert the left needle tip into the new stitch (see fig. 2b above). Both needles remain in the new stitch.
Repeat step 2 for each new stitch until all cast-on stitches are made. Withdraw the right needle after the last stitch is made. Although both needles remain in the new loop at all times, the stitches collect on the left needle only.
(Taken From: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-knit3.htm)
Casting on forms the first row of stitches. There are many ways of casting on and here we describe a one needle method and a two needle method. The thumb method (one needle) is used whenever a less noticeable, very elastic edge is needed, or when the rows immediately after the cast on edge are worked in garter stitch or stocking stitch. The two needle method, known as ‘cable’ or ‘between needles’, gives a very firm, neat finish and is best used before ribbing or any other firm type of stitch. Before you start to cast on you need to make a slipknot, for this is the starting point of almost everything you do in knitting.
Making a slip knot
1. Wind the yarn around two fingers and over the two fingers again to the back of the first thread (Fig.16).
2. Using a knitting needle pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop (Fig.17).
3. Pull end to tighten loop (Fig.18).
Casting on with the thumb method (one needle)
1. Make a slip knot about 1 metre from the end of the yarn. Place the slip knot on a needle and hold the needle in the right hand with the ball end of the yarn over your first finger. * Wind the loose end of the yarn round the left thumb from front to back (Fig.19).
2. Insert the needle through the yarn on the thumb (Fig.20).
3. Take the yarn with your right forefinger over the point of the needle (Fig.21).
4. Pull the loop through to form the first stitch (Fig.22).
5. Remove your left thumb from the yarn and pull the loose end to secure the stitch (Fig.23).
Repeat from * until the required number of stitches are cast on.
Casting on with the cable method (two needles)
1. Make a slip knot and place it on the left needle (Fig.24).
2. Insert the right hand needle through the slipknot and pass the yarn over the right needle (Fig.25).
3. Pull a loop through (Fig.26).
4. Place this loop on the left hand needle (Fig.27).
5. Insert the right hand needle between the two stitches on the left needle. Wind the yarn round the point of the right needle (Fig.28).
6. Draw a loop through, place this loop on the left hand needle (Fig.29).
Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the required number of stitches are cast on.
(Taken From: http://www.learn2knit.co.uk/knitting/cast-on.php)
A finished row of knitting.
Opening the loop.
Looping the yarn over.
“Turning” the Stitch.
A finished knit stitch.
Ready to knit row two.
A garter stitch square.
Learning the Knit Stitch
Knitting has two basic stitches: the knit stitch and the purl stitch. After mastering these stitches, you’ll be able to create many stitch patterns.
Holding the Yarn
Experiment with the way you hold the yarn. Weave the yarn through your fingers as shown below, or try other ways until you find a method that works for you and feels comfortable. The ability to tension the yarn as it flows through your fingers while knitting allows you to maintain your gauge and work neat, even stitches. It’s also less tiring on the hands.
Holding the yarn, using the American-English method
Knit Stitch (k)
Knitting is enjoyed and practiced all over the world, but not everyone knits in the same style. There is no right or wrong style of knitting. This article presents two of the more common knitting methods used in America: the American-
English method, with the yarn held in the right hand, and the Continental method, with the yarn held in the left hand.
The knit stitch is the most common and versatile stitch of all. It is smooth on one side and bumpy on the other. The smooth side is generally used as the right side of the work — the side that faces out. The working yarn is always held behind the needle when making the knit stitch. In other words, the knit fabric and the needle will always be between you and the working yarn. When working flat, back and forth knitting, knitting every row creates garter stitch.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method
Step 1: Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. The working yarn is already attached to the stitch closest to the needle tip. Hold the empty needle in your right hand; take hold of the working yarn with your right hand, and hold it behind the right needle. Insert the empty needle from front to back through the first stitch on the left needle (fig. 5a). The right needle is underneath the left needle.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5a
Step 2: Bring your right hand and forefinger toward the tip of the right needle (the yarn is underneath the right needle). Wrap the yarn around the right needle from back to front (fig. 5b). Be careful not to wrap it around the left needle, too.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5b
Step 3: Keeping the yarn firmly tensioned in your right hand, bring the right needle toward you, pulling a new loop through the old stitch (fig. 5c).
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5c
Step 4: With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle (fig. 5d). Unlike the cast-on, the new knit stitches are held on the right needle.
Knit Stitch, American-English Method: Figure 5d
You have just knit your first stitch, American-English style. Repeat until all the cast-on stitches have been knit and are on the needle held in the right hand. Jump ahead to Knitting the Next Row, or cast on another 20 stitches and try the knit stitch, Continental style.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method
As in the American-English method, the yarn is always held behind the work when making the knit stitch.
Holding the yarn, using the Continental method
Step 1: Hold the working yarn and the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Insert the empty needle into the first stitch on the left needle, from front to back (fig. 6a). The right needle is under the left needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6a
Step 2: Holding the yarn in your left hand, over the left forefinger and behind both needles, bring the yarn over the right needle from left to right as shown (fig. 6b). Be careful not to wrap it around the left needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6b
Step 3: Keeping the yarn firmly in your hand, pull the right needle and the yarn loop toward you, through the cast-on stitch (fig. 6c).
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6c
Step 4: With the new stitch on the right needle, slip the old stitch off the left needle (fig. 6d). Unlike the cast-on stitches, the new knit stitches are held on the right needle.
Knit Stitch, Continental Method: Figure 6d
You have just knit your first stitch, Continental style. Repeat until all the cast-on stitches have been knit.
Knitting the Next Row, Either Style
The second and all subsequent knit rows are worked the same as the first: Knit each stitch on the needle in the left hand.
Step 1: When you have knit all the stitches from the left needle, turn the work, switching the needle with all the stitches on it from your right hand to your left.
Step 2: The working yarn is attached to the stitch closest to the needle tip. Insert the right needle into the first stitch and repeat the knitting steps across the first row, working into each of the stitches of the previous row instead of into the cast-on stitches.
Note: When beginning each new row, make sure the working yarn is beneath the needle holding the stitches and is not wrapped over the needle. If the working yarn is pulled upward, the first stitch will appear as two stitches, with both stitch loops appearing in front of the needle. If you knit both loops as single stitches, you’ll increase the number of stitches on your needle. Remember, the front loop of each stitch should be in front of the needle and the back loop behind the needle (see Knit Loops and Purl Loops).
(Taken From: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-knit4.htm)
The Basic Stitches
The knit stitch (k)
1. With the yarn at the back of the work, insert the right hand needle from left to right through the front of the first stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.30).
2. Wind the yarn over the right hand needle (Fig.31).
3. Pull through a loop (Fig.32).
4. Slip the original stitch off the left hand needle (Fig.33).
Repeat until all the stitches have been transferred from the left to the right hand needle.
To knit into the back of a stitch (KB1)
This technique is sometimes used to create a twisted rib effect, as well as some textured stitch patterns. Insert the needle into the back of the stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.34),
then follow steps 2 to 4 for the knit stitch.
The purl stitch (p)
1. With the yarn at the front of the work, insert the right hand needle from right to left through the front of the first stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.35).
2. Wind the yarn round the right hand needle (Fig.36).
3. Draw a loop through to the back (Fig.37).
4. Slip the original stitch off the left hand needle (Fig.38).
To purl into the back of a stitch (PB1)
Insert the needle into the back of the stitch on the left hand needle from behind and bring the point of the right hand needle through to the front (Fig.39),
then follow steps 2 to 4 for the purl stitch.
The garter stitch
The garter stitch is formed by working every row as a knit row, the first row usually being the right side (Fig.40).
The same effect can also be achieved by working every row as purl.
Stocking stitch is made up of one row of knit stitches followed by one row of purl stitches, starting with a knit row, which is the right side of the work.
Reverse stocking stitch is made up of one row of purl stitches followed by one row of knit stitches, starting with a purl row, which is the right side of the work.
Ribbing is an elastic fabric which is often used for garment edgings. The two most usual types are 1×1 rib, which is formed by alternating 1 knit stitch and 1 purl stitch (Fig.41) and 2×2 rib which is formed by alternating 2 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches (Fig.42). Care must be taken to purl the stitches which were knitted on the previous row and vice versa.
Knit one Below (K1B)
This stitch is used in Fishermen’s rib. Insert the right hand needle into the next stitch but in the row below the stitch on the left hand needle. Then knit the stitch as normal (Fig.43).
(Taken From: http://www.learn2knit.co.uk/knitting/basic-stitches.php)
Casting off is the method used to dispose of a number of stitches. It is used during shaping, on shoulder seams for example and often forms the last row of the work. Always cast off in pattern, i.e. when working on stocking stitch cast off knitwise on a knit row and purlwise on a purl row and when casting off ribbing, do so as if you were continuing to rib. Most pattern stitches can be followed when casting off.
Casting off knitwise
Knit the first two stitches. * Using the left hand needle, lift the first stitch over the second and drop it off the needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat from * (Fig.44).
Casting off purlwise
Purl the first two stitches. *Using the left hand needle, lift the first stitch over the second and drop it off the needle. Purl the next stitch and repeat from * (Fig.45).
Casting off with a crochet hook
It saves a lot of time if you use a crochet hook to cast off. Treat the crochet hook as if it were the right hand needle and knit or purl the first two stitches in the usual way. *Pull the second stitch through the first, knit or purl the next stitch and repeat from *.
This method is particularly useful when a loose, elastic cast off edge is required, as you can gently loosen the stitch still on the crochet hook to ensure that the elasticity is retained (Fig.46).
(Taken From: http://www.learn2knit.co.uk/knitting/casting-off.php)
The binding off (BO) technique finishes the last row and secures the stitches so the needles can be removed. You will often see the phrase “bind off in pattern.” This means work the last row of stitches as instructed, and bind off as you work. It sounds tricky, but it’s not. The illustrations here show a knit row for the bind-off, but you’ll want to practice the technique on both knit and purl rows.
Step 1: Hold the needle with stitches in your left hand and the empty needle in your right hand. Hold the yarn in position for the knit stitch, behind your work.
Step 2: Knit the first 2 stitches.
Step 3: Insert the left needle from left to right into the front loop of the first stitch on the right needle (fig. 9a). Note: This is the stitch farther from the right needle tip.
Binding Off: Figure 9a
Step 4: Use the left needle to pull this stitch over the second stitch and drop it off the right needle. One stitch bound off; the second stitch remains on the right needle (fig. 9b).
Binding Off: Figure 9b
Step 5: Knit the next stitch.
Step 6: Repeat steps 3-5 until you have bound off all stitches from the left needle and 1 stitch remains on the right needle. Cut the yarn about 4 inches from the stitch, and pull the yarn tail through the last stitch (fig. 9c). Remove the needle and pull the yarn tail to tighten.
Binding Off: Figure 9c
Many new knitters bind off too tightly. The bound-off edge should be as elastic as the rest of the knitting. If necessary, use a larger needle size to work the stitches in your bind-off row.
(Taken From: http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-knit6.htm)
Some Knitting Projects
Ribbed Hat (Beginner)
This hat is very easy for beginners because it’s knitted with just two needles as a rectangle and sewn up when completed.
The knit2, purl2 rib is very stretchy so the hat will fit almost anyone. If you’re going to make it for a child reduce the number of stitches in multiples of 4.
Knit2, Purl2 Rib video
I used some double knitting acrylic yarn out of my stash. Any double knit weight of yarn will be fine for this hat as long as your tension gauge is reasonably close.
Tension / Gauge
24sts and 26 rows to 4″ over K2, P2 rib slightly stretched. I used 5mm needles (US 8).
Cast On 96 stitches.
Row 1: *(K2, P2) Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 following: Repeat row 1.
Continue in pattern until piece measures 9½” ending with a Right Side row.
Shaping for top:
Row: *(K2tog, P2)repeat from * to end of row.
Row: K2 *(K2tog, K1) repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Row: *(P2, P2tog) repeat from * to last stitch, P1.
Row: *(K1, K2tog) repeat from * to last stitch, K1.
Row: *(P2tog, P1) repeat from * to last stitch, P1.
Row: *(K2tog) repeat from * to last stitch, K1. (9 stitches remain)
Cut yarn leaving about 20″-30″ for sewing up. Thread a tapestry needle with the tail end of the yarn and pass through all the remaining stitches. Draw up tight and sew in. Sew up the side seam of the hat.
Me & My
|click to enlarge image|
|SIZES: Small (Medium, Large, X-Large) to fit Baby 6-12 months (12-18 months, 18-24 months, Toddler’s 2-4).
Chest 21 (23, 25, 27)”
Length 11 1/2 (13, 14 1/2, 15)”
(100% Acrylic, 3oz/85g, 150yds/137m):
#0003 Fuscia Fare, 6 (6, 9, 9) oz/170 (170, 155, 255) g
One pair size US 10 1/2 (6.5 mm) needles, or size to obtain gauge
One circular needle size US 10 1/2 (6.5 mm) needles 16”/40.5 cm long
Stitch holders (5)
Stitch markers (4)
In Stockinette stitch 16 sts and 22 rows = 4”/10 cm
Stockinette stitch (St st)
Garter stitch (Garter st)
Row 1: * K1, p1; repeat from * across, [end k1 if an odd number of sts].
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they face you.
(WS) Work to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2.
Cardigan is worked from the neck down. Body is worked back and forth on circular needle; sleeves are worked on straight needles.
Beginning at upper end of hood using circular needle, cast on 48 (51, 54, 57) sts. Do not join.
Row 1 (RS): K.
Row 2: K3 (border), p to last 3 sts, k3 (border).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 6 (7, 8, 9)”, end with a WS row.
Dec row (RS): K3, * k1, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3 – 34 (36, 38, 40) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K3, work in 1×1 rib to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: K3, work in 1×1 rib to last 3 sts, k3.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 1”, ending with a WS row and working buttonhole on Row 4.
Row 1: (RS) K.
Row 2: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 3: K4, *inc 1 st in next st, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4 – 47 (50, 53, 56) sts.
Row 4: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 5: K3, k2tog to last 4 (3, 4, 3) sts, k4 (3, 4, 3) sts.
Row 6: K4 (3, 4, 3), *work k st in horizontal strand between sts, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3 – 47 (50, 53, 56) sts.
Row 7: K3, *inc 1 st in next st, k2; repeat from *, end last repeat k4 – 61 (65, 69, 73) sts.
Rows 8-10: Repeat Rows 4-6 maintaining 3 or 4 Garter sts at beg and end of decrease and increase rows – 61 (65, 69, 73) sts.
Row 11: K3, *inc 1 st in next st, k3; repeat from *, end last repeat k5 – 75 (80, 85, 90) sts.
Rows 12-14: Repeat Rows 4-6 maintaining 3 or 4 Garter sts at beg and end of decrease and increase rows and working another buttonhole on Row 13 – 75 (80, 85, 90) sts.
Row 15: K4, *inc 1 st in next st, k4; repeat from *, end last repeat k5 – 89 (95, 101, 107) sts.
Rows 16-18: Repeat Rows 4-6 maintaining 3 or 4 Garter sts at beg and end of decrease and increase rows – 89 (95, 101, 107) sts.
Row 19: K7 (7, 7, 8), *inc 1 st in next st, k4; repeat from *, end last repeat k6 (7, 8, 8) – 105 (112, 119, 126) sts.
Rows 20-22: Repeat Rows 4-6 maintaining 3 or 4 Garter sts at beg and end of decrease and increase rows – 105 (112, 119, 126) sts.
Row 23: K3 (3, 4, 5), *inc 1 st in next st, k4; repeat from *, end last repeat k6 (8, 9, 10) — 125 (133, 141, 149) sts.
Rows 24-26: Repeat Rows 4-6 maintaining 3 or 4 Garter sts at beg and end of decrease and increase rows – 125 (133, 141, 149) sts.
Row 27: Note: Place a marker after 23 (24, 25, 26) right front sts, after next 20 (21, 22, 23) sleeve sts, after next 39 (43, 47, 51) back sts and after next 20 (21, 22, 23) sleeve sts—4 markers. K across inc 1 st before and after each marker working another buttonhole to correspond to previous one—8 sts inc.
Row 28: K3, p to last 3 sts slipping markers, k3.
Row 29: K across inc 1 st before and after each markers (8 sts inc) – 141 (149, 157, 165) sts.
Row 30: Repeat Row 28.
For size Medium only: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 once.
For size Large only: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice.
For size X-Large only: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three times.
Dividing Row (RS): K25 (26, 27, 28) sts and place them on a holder for left front, k24 (25, 26, 27) sts and place them on a holder for left sleeve, k43 (47, 51, 55) sts and place them on a holder for back, k24 (25, 26, 27) sts and place them on a holder for right sleeve, k25 (26, 27, 28) sts and place them on a holder for right front.
Using straight needles, join yarn and beginning with a p row work sts from left sleeve holder in St st for 4 (5, 6 1/2, 7 1/2)”, dec 5 sts evenly spaced across last row – 19 (20, 21, 22) sts. Work in 1×1 rib for 1 1/2”. Bind off in rib.
Place right sleeve sts onto straight needles from holder and work as for left sleeve.
With RS facing, using circular needle place left front sts, back sts, then right front sts from holders onto circular needle – 93 (99, 105, 111) sts. Join yarn and beginning with a p row, work in St st for 4 (5, 6, 6)” keeping first 3 and last 3 sts in Garter st, end with a WS row. (RS) K3, *k2tog to last 4 sts, k4.
(WS) K4, *work k st in horizontal strand between sts, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3. (K1 row, p 1 row) twice.
Eyelet Hemline Row (RS): K3, *k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k4.
P 1 row. (K 1 row, p 1 row) twice. Bind off purlwise.
Sew sleeve seams. Sew hood seam. Fold hem to wrong side along eyelet row to first row above beg of pattern Row 5. Sew on buttons.
Click to enlarge image
schematics | chart
|designed by Kathy Perry
TECHNIQUE USED: Knit
|CAMI INSTRUCTIONS | [click for SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS] SIZES: X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
Bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)”/81 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) cm
Length 19 (20, 20 1/2, 21, 22)”/48 (51, 52, 53.5, 56) cm
#9742 Grey Heather, 12 (12, 18, 18, 24) oz
One pair size US 8 (5 mm) needles or size to obtain gauge
Crochet hook size US size H-8 (5 mm)
Beads with large holes
Beading needle and thread
In St st, 18 sts and 24 rows = 4″/10 cm
In Eyelet patt, 16 sts and 22 rows = 4″/10 cm
dcd (double centered decrease): Slip 2 sts together, knitwise to right-hand needle, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over knit-st.
k1-f/b (increase): Knit next st, then knit it through the back loop.
k2tog (decrease): Knit 2 sts together through the front loops on RS.
p2tog (decrease: Purl 2 sts together through the front loops on WS.
ssk (decrease): Slip 2 sts, one at a time, knitwise to right-hand needle, return sts to left-hand needle in turned position and knit them together through the back loops on RS.
ssp (decrease): Slip 2 sts, one at a time, knitwise to right-hand needle, return sts to left-hand needle in turned position and purl them together through the back loops on WS.
yo (eyelet increase): With the yarn in the knit position, bring it to the front between the needles, to the purl position, then carry it over the needle, ready to knit the next stitch.
KNIT STITCHES USED
Garter stitch (Garter st): Knit all sts every row.
Stockinette stitch (St st): Knit on RS, purl on WS.
Eyelet Pattern (Multiple of 8 sts + 3)
Also see Chart.
Row 1: K2, *k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k1; rep from * across to last st, k1.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, k2tog, *k1, yo, k3, yo, k1 +, dcd; rep from * across to last 3 sts, ending last rep at +, ssk, k1.
Rows 5, 9, 11 and 13: Knit.
Row 7: K5, *yo, ssk, k6; rep from * across, end last rep k4 instead of k6.
Row 14: Purl.
Rep Rows 1 – 14 for Eyelet patt.
CROCHET STITCHES USED
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook in st indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.
Slip Stitch (slip st): Insert hook in the st indicated, yarn over and draw through both the st and the loop on the hook.
Picot Edging (multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Using crochet hook, join yarn with a slip st at seam.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around, join with a slip st in first st.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * around, end ch 3, join with a slip st in first st. Fasten off.
While working shaping in Eyelet patt, keep 1 st in St st at each side throughout; do not work eyelets (yarn over – inc) without a compensating dec (ssk, k2tog dcd); work sts in St st until enough sts have been inc’d to work the Eyelet sts.
Cast on 102 (118, 134, 150, 166) sts.
(RS) Beg Garter st; work even for 2 rows, end with a WS row.
(RS) Change to St st; work even until piece measures 4″ from beg, end with a WS row.
(RS) *K2tog; rep from * across—51 (59, 67, 75, 83) sts rem.
(WS) Cont in St st, work even for 1 row.
(RS) Change to Eyelet patt; work even for 6 rows, end with a WS row.
(RS) Beg this row, inc 1 st each side then every 4 rows 7 times total as follows, working inc sts in patt as they become available: K1-f/b, work across to last 2 sts, k1-f/b, k1—65 (73, 81, 89, 97) sts.
Work even until piece measures 8 (81/2, 8 1/2, 8 1/2, 9)” from beg of Bodice, end with a WS row.
(RS) Bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows—57 (63, 69, 75, 81) sts rem
(RS) Dec 1 st each side every other row 4 (5, 7, 8, 9) times—49 (53, 55, 59, 63) sts rem.
Work even until armhole measures 6 (6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8)” from beg of shaping, end with a WS row. Place a marker (pm) each side of center 19 (21, 21, 23, 25) sts.
Shape Neck and Shoulders
Work across to first marker; join a second ball of yarn and bind off center sts; work to end—15 (16, 17, 18, 19) sts rem each side. Working both sides at the same time, at each neck edge, dec 1 st every row 4 times—11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts rem each shoulder.
Work even until armhole measures 7 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9)” from beg of shaping.
Bind off rem sts.
Cast on 54 (62, 70, 78, 86) sts.
(RS) Beg Garter st; work even for 2 rows, end with a WS row.
(RS) Change to St st; work even until piece measures 4″ from beg, end with a WS row.
(RS) *K2tog; rep from * across—27 (31, 35, 39, 43) sts rem.
(WS) Conti in St st, work even for 1 row.
Bodice – Establish Pattern
Row 1 (RS) K2, *k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k1; rep from * 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times, end k0 (4, 0, 4, 0), then k1 at center Front edge.
Cont as established, work even for 6 rows, end with a WS row.
(RS) Beg this row, inc 1 st at armhole edge (beg of RS rows) every 4 rows 7 times as follows, working inc’d sts in patt as they become available: K1-f/b, work to end—34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.
Work even until piece measures 8 (81/2, 8 1/2, 8 1/2, 9)” from beg of Bodice, end with a WS row.
Shape Armhole and Neck
(RS) At armhole edge, bind off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts once, then dec 1 st every other row 4 (5, 7, 8, 9) times as for Back; AT THE SAME TIME, beg on first row of armhole shaping, at neck edge (end of RS rows, beg of WS rows) dec 1 st every 3 rows 13 (13, 13, 12, 12) times, then every other row 2 (3, 3, 5, 6) times as follows:
(RS) Work across to last 3 sts at neck edge, ssk, k1.
(WS) P1, ssp, work to end.
Work even on rem 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts each shoulder until armhole measures 7 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9)” from beg of shaping. Bind off rem sts.
Cast on, work Ruffle and Waist shaping as for left Front—27 (31, 35, 39, 43) sts rem.
Bodice – Establish Pattern
(RS) At center Front edge, k1, then k0 (4, 0, 4), beg Eyelet patt and work to end.
Cont as est, work even for 6 rows, end with a WS row.
Work incs as for left Front as follows:
(RS) Work across to last 2 sts, k1-f/b, k1—34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts.
Work as for left Front to Armhole and Neck shaping
Shape Armhole and Neck
Work as for left Front, working first row of armhole shaping at beg of WS rows, rem decs at end of RS rows as for Back. Work neck shaping at beg of RS rows, end of WS rows as follows:
(RS) At neck edge, k1, k2tog, work to end.
(WS) Work across to last 3 sts at neck edge, p2tog, p1.
Work even on rem 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts each shoulder until armhole measures 7 (7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9)” from beg of shaping. Bind off rem sts.
Sew shoulder and side seams. Pm for five buttonholes on right center Front above Ruffle first 1/2″ above beg of Bodice, last at beg of neck shaping, rem 3 evenly spaced between.
With RS facing, beg at lower right Front corner of Ruffle, using crochet hook, join yarn with a slip st to corner st.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly up right center Front, along neck shaping Front and Back, and down left center Front to lower edge of Ruffle, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc up left Front to beg of neck shaping; change to Picot Edging, work along neck shaping Front and Back, ending at right Front; change to sc, work down right center Front, working buttonholes opposite markers as follows: *Sc to marker, [ch 2, skip 2 sc] for buttonhole; rep from * 4 times, sc to end of Ruffle.
With RS facing, beg at underarm seam, using crochet hook, join yarn with a slip st to corner st.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around armhole edge, join with a slip st to first st, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, work Picot Edging around, join with a slip st to first st.
Using crochet hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, leaving a 12″ tail at the beg (for beads), work a chain desired length for waist tie (see photo).
Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Thread Belt through the first row of Eyelets at waist (see photo).
Add beads to long tails, as desired, knotting the tail after each bead to secure bead.
Using sewing needle and thread, sew beads around neck edge, placing a bead in the center of each Picot.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.
SIZES: Small (Medium, Large)
Waist (approx) 26 (28, 30)”/66 (71, 76) cm
Hips 36 (38, 40)”/81.5 (96.5, 101.5) cm
Skirt Length 32 (33, 34)”/81.5 (84, 86.5) cm
One pair US size 8 (5 mm) needles or size to obtain gauge
Crochet hook US size H-8 (5 mm)
Elastic – 1 yd. ¾” wide
In St st, 18 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm
Stockinette stitch (St st)
Single crochet (sc)
SKIRT FRONT & BACK (make 2)
Cast on 101 (105, 110) sts.
Shapes Sides: Dec 1 st each side every 15 (16, 16) rows 9 times — 83 (87, 92) sts. Work until piece measures 23 (24, 25)” from beg, end with a WS row. Dec 1 st each side on next row, then every 9 rows 6 times — 69 (73, 78) sts. Cont until piece measures 32 (33, 34)” from beg or desired length.
Waistline Casing: Work even in St st for 7 rows, end with a RS row. Knit next row on WS for turning ridge. (RS) Knit next row knitting the sts through the back loops. Cont in St st for 7 rows.
Bind off loosely.
Block pieces to measurements.
Whip stitch casings down. Sew one skirt side seam. Measure waist and cut a piece of elastic 1” larger. Thread elastic through casing overlapping ½”. Secure overlapped ends. Sew rem side seam.
Using crochet hook, work 1 row sc around bottom of skirt.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends.
click to enlarge image
|designed by Treva McCain TECHNIQUE USED: Knit, Crochet & Felting
|FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:Scarf measures approximately 8″/20.5 cm wide x 96″/244 cm long before felting;
Scarf measures approximately 5 1/2″/14 cm wide x 50″/127 cm long after felting, excluding fringe
Caron International’s Felt-It! (100% wool; 1.76 oz/50 g, 93 yd/85 m ball): 4 balls A
Caron International’s Simply Soft Heather (100% Acrylic; 5 oz/141.8 g, 250 yds/228 m skein): 1 skein B
Shown in: #0007 Evening Mist (A); #9505 Plum Heather (B)
One pair size US 11 (8 mm) knitting needles, or size to obtain gauge
One size US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Small leather hole punch—2.5 mm or less, or US 1 (2.25 mm) or US 2 (2.75 mm) knitting needle
In Stockinette stitch, using knitting needles and A, 15 sts and 15 rows = 4″/10 cm, before felting
Knit (k), purl (p), chain (ch), half double crochet (hdc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
Knitted piece will shrink approximately 30% horizontally and 50% vertically. If you wish your scarf to be thinner/wider or shorter/longer, adjust accordingly.
With knitting needles and A, cast on 30 sts.
Row 1: K2, p26, k2.
Row 2: Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you have used all 4 balls of A, leaving a 48″/122 cm tail for bind off. Bind off. Weave in ends.
Felting: Place scarf in mesh sweater bag or pillowcase and close. Using hottest possible water and approximately 2 tablespoons (one capful) liquid soap, fill washer 1/3 full. Place scarf in washer with an old pair of jeans (for agitation). Agitate for 6 minutes. Check the felting progress every minute after 6 minutes; depending on your washer, it will take 6 – 8 minutes of agitation to felt the desired amount. When scarf measures approximately 6″/15 cm wide, remove it from the washer and drain wash water from machine; gently squeeze water from piece. Fill washer to the same water level with cold water. Place piece into washer and rinse/agitate for another minute – the cold water will make the scarf felt just a bit more. Set machine to drain, then run spin cycle for approximately 30 seconds – creases caused by over spinning are difficult to remove from the finished piece. Remove scarf, gently stretching into shape, if needed. You may find it helpful to lay scarf on a couple of bath towels, rolling them up to remove excess water. Lay scarf flat to dry. Drying process may take up to 2 days, depending on humidity in the air.
With hole punch or US size 1 (2.25 mm) or 2 (2.75 mm) knitting needle, make a hole at one corner of scarf, 3/8″/1 cm from each edge. Continue to make holes 3/8″/1 cm from the edge and 1/2″/1.5 cm apart (it is best to only make 8 to 10 holes at a time, work into those, then make additional holes). Using crochet hook, join B with sc in first corner hole, (ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in same corner hole, ch 1, *sc in next hole, ch 1; repeat from * to next corner, (sc, ch 1, sc, ch 1, sc) in corner hole, ch 1; repeat from * around scarf; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.
Place markers in center sc of each corner. Place 5 more markers evenly spaced between the corner markers, along each short edge of scarf (approximately 3/4″/2 cm apart).
Fringe Row: Join B in center sc of corner to work along short edge, ch 22, 2 hdc in third ch from hook, 3 hdc in next 19 ch (fringe made), *sc in each sc and ch-1 space to next marker, ch 22, 2 hdc in third ch from hook, 3 hdc in next 19 ch; repeat from * across short edge. Fasten off.
Repeat Fringe Row on opposite short edge.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Rainbow Pooch Sweater
click to enlarge image
|TECHNIQUE USED: Knit
Chest measurement 14 (18, 22, 26)”
Finished sweater measurement 15 (19, 23, 27)”
The instructions are written for smallest size.MATERIALS:
Caron International’s Simply Soft Brites
Weave in ends.
* Color pattern may vary depending on the size of the dog sweater.
More to come: bookmark this pages and keep an eye out for more tutorials, guides, information, inspiration and free pknitting patterns!