Custom Made Snood for Children

Child’s Fondant Pink Hand Knitted Snood / Cowl / Tube Scarf w/ Flower Brooch (will custom different colours and combinations)

Gorgeously luxurious hand knitted (not a machine in sight!) fondant pink with lemon yellow trim snood. Unique design made from my own personally created pattern out of 100% aran wool.

Comprises of a generous over-the-shoulder piece left slightly open at the front, that can be wrapped, gathered and pinned in a variety of different ways to achieve multiple looks. Features a stylish length of neck tube that can be pulled over one’s head as a hood or left around the neckline for added warmth

Child Sizes: (Please specify which size you need upon ordering)

Small Child: Approx 3 – 8 years
Large Child: Approx 9 – 16 Years

Comes complete with a beautiful flower brooch to pin the piece in place made from a lively pastel, hot and fuchsia pink floral print quality cotton fabric backed in matching yellow 100% polyester silky habutae. This flower is carefully handmade, measures approx 5.5″ across and incorporates a hand stitched fabric disc on the reverse for ease of pinning (this is designed to be attached with safety pins as we believe with repeated pinning and unpinning of the piece that safety pins will minimize any potential damage that traditional brooch pins may cause).

Important Note: Safety pins should be fixed by an adult and worn by children under careful supervision.

If you want to purchase this piece for a smaller child and would prefer the flower to be stitched permanently in place this can be arranged for no extra charge. Please leave an addition note upon ordering if you would prefer us to do this.

The flower brooch is also sold separately – please see our other listings for more details

All our items are gift wrapped for free ~ Each item is carefully gift wrapped in colorful tissue paper, tied with parcel string and topped with a beautiful hand written Lily P Chic tag. Each parcel will then be sealed in a plastic bag to prevent any water damage that may occur and finally wrapped in heavy duty brown paper parcel wrap for postage. If you are buying this item as a gift for someone and would like the gift wrapping items kept separate so that you are at liberty to view the piece and then wrap yourself please add a note to your order.

Care Instructions:
Snood Only…
Machine Washable (40)
Cool Tumble Dry
Cool Iron
May Dry Clean

Sponge Clean Only
DO NOT Immerse in water

Please Note: Each piece is handmade to order and we therefore request that you allow up to 7 working days for the piece to be created in addition to the standard dispatch times. Upon ordering we will contact you with an estimated completion date and then again once your parcel has been dispatched.

Custom Requests: I am prepared to make this piece in a variety of colors in addition to the one advertised here upon request, and will create the flower brooch in a corresponding color and pattern to match. Please do not hesitate to contact me and we can discuss your personal needs for this piece. Thanks


Personally Customizable: Futher Details Below

We can incorporate two, three, four, or more different colours in your snood. Each piece has a trim edge around the base and top – you can choose to have just these trims a different colour to the main section or stripes of several colours. You can have the trim one colour and the main section striped with two entirely different colours. We’re offering a choice of 16 different colours so the combinations you can choose from are endless – you could even have a mega multi-coloured snood with all 16 colours!

Available Colours: Lavender, Lipstick Red (Pictured), Raspberry Pink, Lemon Yellow, Midnight Blue, Aster Blue, Parchment Beige, Fondant Pink, Denim Blue, Aspen Green, Camel Beige, Royal Blue, Dark Brown, White, Black, Cream.

The flower brooch that fastens the snood collar together will be made in a selection of fabrics to match your chosen colour combinations. A specially selected quality cotton decorative quilting fabric will be used for the front of the petals and the centre and a polyester silky habutae in a complimentary colour will be used for the back of the piece.

Customers worldwide can contact us via the Lily P Chic’s Etsy and Folky Online Stores:

and request the exact specifications for this item. (No matter what combination and how many colours you choose the cost remains the same!)

Please Note: Once a custom order is agreed upon you will be expected to make a purchase of the Child’s Fondant Pink Snood as advertised as payment and your piece will then be custom-made for you and dispatched within the agreed time period.

Any further queries regarding this product and indeed any of the Lily P Chic range can be made by contacting us via the Etsy and Folksy links above, through Facebook or Twitter or you can email us direct at:

Thanks x



Fairytale Treasuries

I’ve been asked to knock up some treasury lists on Etsy and so have decided to make them all fairystory themed. They are absolutely adorable collections of homemade and vintage treasures. here’s a sneek peak and links to see the full collections:

Sleeping Beauty

QUEEN  Bed Quilt Ensemble with fun and funky Designer fabrics

Love  Never Dies-Sleeping Beauty print

Fae  Spinning Wheel and Accessories Custom Order

Goldilocks and the Three Bears

FREE  SHIPPING USA - SALE - Honey Bear with Burgundy Bow Air Freshner Cover


Papa  bear, Mama bear and Baby bear  bowl set

Snow White

The  Poison Apple Sleep Print 5 x 10

Apple  print doorstop

CUSTOM MADE TO ORDER...........18 INCH LENGTH.............The  ORIGINAL Snow White Inspired Tutu Dress Costume...NB 6M 12M 18M 2T 3T 4T  5T


Rapunzel - fairy fantasy gothic art print by Deanna Bach

Repunzel's Tower Night light

rapunzel - undyed, hand spun yarn - super bulky 2-ply - merino  wool


Midnight Masquerade necklace

Custom made Cinderella glass slipper pumps heels crystals  rhinestones sequins

Tiny  Broom Pendant

Little Red Riding Hood

Little Red---Tiny Handmade Charm

PDF  crochet pattern...little red riding hood and the big bad wolf

pixie  hood

I’ll keep them coming ~ enjoy!

Clowning Around: Part Three: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Three: Knitted Leg-Warmers

I’ve made my dress from my pattern and now it’s time to jazz up my daughter’s clown costume with some funky accessories. Since the skirt of the dress is quite short I thought it would look cute with some striking stripey flared leg warmers. While I was buying the fabric for the dress I grabbed a couple of balls of wool in red and yellow for these and some matching arm bands (which you can find a tutorial for in part four).

These leg warmers are designed to start just above the knee and finished at the ankle with a flare – if you want a different length, say starting just below the knee, you’ll have to bare this into consideration when you are measuring.


Everyone knits at different tensions and of course many factors such as needle size and wool type / size makes a difference to the size of each finished piece. To ensure the correct measurement of these pieces I first knitted myself a test patch 30 stitches x 30 rows and measured this piece to roughly work out how much I would need for each leg warmer using the same wool and needles. I worked out that approximately 4 stitches would yield an inch in width and as far as the length goes I was happy to keep measuring the piece as I knitted until it was the desired length.

I got my daughter to stand straight and still, measured her from the knee downward and around her ankle at the point I wanted the leg warmers to flare around and…

…Heres the basic knit pattern I used for each piece (which of course will be subject to your alterations as necessary but as with the dress pattern, I am hoping these details will give you an idea).

To create a piece roughly 13″ x 13″

(Explanation of measurements: 13″ x 13″ will achieved a rough square of knit. The top will be folded over to create a turn over of around 1.5″. Once sewed together to create a tube for the warmer the piece will be attached together along a diagonal, the bottom to be flared as so will measure the 13″ knitted and the top to be cut to size and elasticated to fit the smaller circumference of the top of her knee – if this is too confusing, don’t panic, read ahead as the pictures will help explain this better as the tutorial continues.)

  • Size 4.5 mm Needles
  • Wool, 100% Acrylic Aran Wool
  • Cast on in Red; 50 Stitches

(If you’re new to knitting, this video tutorial will show you how to cast on with one needle)

  • Row 1: Pearl all in red
  • Row 2: Knit all in red
  • Row 3: Pearl all in red
  • Row 4: Knit all in red
  • Row 5: Pearl all in red
  • Row 6: Knit all in red
  • Row 7: Knit all in red (this is where the fold of the turn-over at the top of the leg warmer will be created – just like the top of a sock!)
  • Row 8: Pearl all in red
  • Row 9: Knit all in red
  • Row 10: Pearl all in red
  • Row 11: Knit all in red
  • Row 12: Pearl all in red

Now add your yellow wool: Here’s another video to show you how:

  • Row 13: Knit in yellow
  • Row 14: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 15: Knit in yellow
  • Row 16: Pearl in yellow

From this point in, until the very end you’ll be knitting four rows in red (K,P,K,P) and four in yellow (K,P,K,P) to create your stripes. remember.

  • Row 17: Knit in red
  • Row 18: Pearl in red
  • Row 19: Knit in red
  • Row 20: Knit in red
  • Row 21: Knit in yellow
  • Row 22: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 23: Knit in yellow
  • Row 24: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 25: Knit in red
  • Row 26: Pearl in red
  • Row 27: Knit in red
  • Row 28: Knit in red
  • Row 29: Knit in yellow
  • Row 30: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 31: Knit in yellow
  • Row 32: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 33: Knit in red
  • Row 34: Pearl in red
  • Row 35: Knit in red
  • Row 36: Knit in red
  • Row 37: Knit in yellow
  • Row 38: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 39: Knit in yellow
  • Row 40: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 41: Knit in red
  • Row 42: Pearl in red
  • Row 43: Knit in red
  • Row 44: Knit in red
  • Row 45: Knit in yellow
  • Row 46: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 47: Knit in yellow
  • Row 48: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 49: Knit in red
  • Row 50: Pearl in red
  • Row 51: Knit in red
  • Row 52: Knit in red
  • Row 53: Knit in yellow
  • Row 54: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 55: Knit in yellow
  • Row 56: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 57: Knit in red
  • Row 58: Pearl in red
  • Row 59: Knit in red
  • Row 60: Knit in red
  • Row 61: Knit in yellow
  • Row 62: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 63: Knit in yellow
  • Row 64: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 65: Knit in red
  • Row 66: Pearl in red
  • Row 67: Knit in red
  • Row 68: Knit in red
  • Row 69: Knit in yellow
  • Row 70: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 71: Knit in yellow
  • Row 72: Pearl in yellow
  • Row 73: Knit in red
  • Row 74: Cast off on a pearl

(This way I have a small strip of red at the end for stitching the ruffled trim along the bottom.)

If your pieces are curling up at  the edges you can take a cool iron and with a damp tea towel on top of each piece gently iron out until your pieces are easier to work with.

Next I pinned over my turn overs which will form the top piece of each leg warmer

and carefully stitched them into place

At this point I’d like to make it clear that if you prefer to hand sew these together with a large wool needle and wool that’s absolutely fine. Using the machine is simply a personal preference of mine and there are no hard and fast rules here. The wool here is much thicker than fabric that would normally go through a machine so I sewed this piece with the foot up and turned the wheel manually by hand.

Remembering the measurement I’d taken and jotted down of the circumference of the area just above my daughters knee where I want the top of the warmer to sit and allowing around 1″ – 1.5″ extras since the area will be elasticated I folded the piece in half with the reverse on the outside and pinned at a diagonal to form my flare.

I stitched along this line using a machine like before and trimmed the excess

I then hand sewed the edges to ensure the piece holds together and doesn’t fray

If, unlike me, you are really good at knitting then you could easily knock up a piece that was flared without cutting down and stitching like this. If you’re terrible at knitting you could just make the leg warmers with fabric.

Even though I’ve stitched the openings of the top fold together I can still insert my elastic by using a safety-pin and threading it through one of the holes in the knit itself at the point of the stitch line on the inside.

Once I have it all the way round, exit the fold in the same way and tie the elastic together at the back, trim the excess and tuck into the back of the leg warmer.

To finish the piece, add a red silky ruffled trim around the bottom in the same way as I showed you on the dress in part two of this tutorial

Stich along the red edge that you allowed yourself while knitting

Do the same for the second warmer and voila! Two super cute and funky 70’s style clown striped leg warmers!

Don’t forget to check out part nine below to see them with the full outfit!

If you’re completely new to knitting Video Jug has a great selection of video tutorials from the real basics to the pro stuff: Click here to visit Video Jug


Clowning Around: Part One: The Pattern

Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

Clowning Around: Part Three: The Underskirt

Clowning Around: Part Four: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Five: Knitted Armbands

Clowning Around: Part Six: Bow Tie

Clowning Around: Part Seven: Hair Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Eight: Baton with Swirly Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Nine: Full Materials Needed Breakdown

Clowning Around: Part Ten: Final Full Outfit Images

Clowning Around: Part Eleven: The Carnival Parade Goes Live!

(Please Note: This tutorial is presently still a work in progress and not all of the parts are available yet, please either bookmark the homepage or follow us through Networked Blogs, the WordPress RSS Feed, hit the email subscription box on the right column, or add us on Facebook or Twitter for regular updates. Thank You.)


Clowning Around: Part One: The Dress Pattern

How exciting, my 3-year-old daughter is going to be on a carnival float with her dance troop. They want all the little kiddies in circus themed outfits so I’ve decided to make her a pretty little clown outfit based on this quick sketch:

To post the entire tutorial on one go would prove to be too lengthy so I’ll separate it into parts. This is part one:

Making the Pattern:

I stood her on a chair and asked her to hold her arms parallel to the floor while I did a few quick measurements. (She’s tall like her Dad so she measures larger than the standard length for a 3-year-old).

I measured down her back and front, around her waist and what drop of the skirt I’d like from her waist downwards making notes of these measurements as I went along.

The Fiber Gypsy has a great little online chart with standard children’s measurements here which you may find useful.

Then I quickly sketched out the basic shape of each of the dress panels like this:

The aim is a 1950’s style fitted dress with a poofy skirt and sleeves – it’ll be the fabrics and embellishments I choose that make it “clowny”.

Then I sellotaped pieces of A4 paper together and began measuring out my pattern (course if you have paper larger than A4 sellotape wouldn’t be necessary)

There is no allowance for hems on the patterns I have made here so when cutting out fabric I shall allow around 1/4 – 1/2″ all around for my hemlines. If you prefer your pattern to include hem allowance you’ll have to consider this when drawing them out.

If you prefer, dressmakers tracing, pattern and carbon paper is available to buy at most good haberdashery shops. Personally I don’t see the need for such a simple project but for more complicated projects paper like this would be very handy indeed.

This is probably the most basic pattern in the history of all mankind but I really don’t see the point of over complicating things if there’s no need.

Boring Measurements Info:

This is all based on exactly what you see above – measured for my daughter and will of course be subject to your own adjustments, hopefully these measurements should give you a general idea of where to go.

Front Panel:

  • Across Waist: 5.5″
  • Down Chest: 6″
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

(The angle of the skirt was drawn by sight to give a rough taper)

You will need to cut out one of these pieces.

Side Panels:

  • Armhole Depth: 5″
  • Across waist: 3″
  • Down Sides: 6″
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

(The curve of the armhole was drawn by hand)

You will need to cut out 4 of these – 2 on one side and a further two using the pattern reversed.

Breast Panel:

  • 1.75″ Wide
  • 7.5″ Long at Longest Point
  • 6.5″ Long at Shortest Point

(The curve at either side was drawn by hand and the piece folded in half when cutting out for symmetry.)

You need to cut out one of these pieces.

Back Panel:

  • Across Waist: 5.5″
  • Down Back: 9″ (with a slight curve drawn towards the middle of the back)
  • Skirt Drop: 10″

You will need to cut out one of these pieces.


Use the side panel pattern piece to draw the curve of the sleeve sides, cut straight along the bottom and a domed curve across the top

  • Across the Bottom: 11″
  • Width (from widest part): 7 1/4″


Now I have my pattern cut and ready I’m off to buy some fabric!


Clowning Around: Part One: The Pattern

Clowning Around: Part Two: Making The Dress

Clowning Around: Part Three: The Underskirt

Clowning Around: Part Four: Knitted Leg-Warmers

Clowning Around: Part Five: Knitted Armbands

Clowning Around: Part Six: Bow Tie

Clowning Around: Part Seven: Hair Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Eight: Baton with Swirly Ribbons

Clowning Around: Part Nine: Full Materials Needed Breakdown

Clowning Around: Part Ten: Final Full Outfit Images

Clowning Around: Part Eleven: The Carnival Parade Goes Live!

(Please Note: This tutorial is presently still a work in progress and not all of the parts are available yet, please either bookmark the homepage or follow us through Networked Blogs, the WordPress RSS Feed, hit the email subscription box on the right column, or add us on Facebook or Twitter for regular updates. Thank You.)


Edible Teacups!

Today’s the day of our Alice in Wonderland themed tea party. I just knocked up these little beauties and am quite tickled by how wonderful they look…

Here’s how to make your own:

What you Need:

  • Ice Cream Cones
  • Biscuits
  • Jelly Ring Sweets
  • Sweets to Fill the “Cups”

With a knife, cut the tops off your ice cream cones (do this carefully as they are brittle and you need to achieve a straight cut so they don’t topple over).

Cut a jelly ring in half and stick it on to the side of your cone top to form the teacup handle (the inside of the sweet is sticky and so will hold fast just fine).

Pop, you teacup on a biscuit “saucer” and fill with sweets. Job done!

How cute are these?


We’d love to see your own creations, send your photos to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.


Egg and Dairy Free Cupcakes

Fairy Toadstools

Shabby Chic Bunting

Make Your Own: Alice in Wonderland Costume

To celebrate my daughters and mothers birthdays next weekend we’re having an Alice in Wonderland themed tea party. I needed an Alice dress for my almost 4-year-old quick!

I cut a lot of corners to make this so it’s quick and simple, and I am proud to say that it cost me nothing at all as I was able to use materials entirely from my salvage box.

Here’s how I made the dress:

Fabric Used:

  • Blue Fabric (I used an old ankle length skirt of mine – if I had purchased fabric I probably would have bought a slightly lighter blue but as far as a 4-year-old is concerned blue is blue so it’s all good.)
  • White Fabric (This was one of Daddy’s old work shirts)
  • Elastic (Taken from my older son’s boxer shorts – washed first of course)

I used one of my daughters school pinafore dresses as a template, roughly drawing around the top section to create my basic shape.

From my material I cut two of these pieces and unsure if I would have enough material left over for sleeves I hemmed the necklines and sleeve openings.

To allow enough room to get the dress over her head I created this easy peasy tie-up opening with a short length of white ribbon. Here’s how:

  • Cut a slit along the back.
  • Add another small cut to create a “T” shape slit
  • Pin a length of ribbon along each edge leaving enough at the tops to tie the garment shut when worn.
  • Add a small piece of ribbon along the bottom the keep the edges neat.
  • Sew on the ribbon as pictured.

Pin the two pieces together and sew along the sides and the gap between the neck and sleeve openings. Apologies for the image that shows the piece being pinned in preparation for this step, anyone that owns felines will understand that at some point in any project your cat will decide to do something along these lines.

Ok poser, just one more picture then you’re off so I can finish this dress…

From the biggest piece of full fabric I’d salvaged from my old skirt I cut myself a rectangle, pinned along one edges and hemmed. If you have more material than me you can use much more for a fuller, gathered effect. For a really dramatic poofed out look you could also whip up an underskirt from white netting if you have any lying around.

Sew along what will become the back of the skirt to form a large loop with your rectangle.

Pin and sew to the top part of the dress, neaten any edges, trim any loose threads and turn out.



For the apron I used one of Daddy’s old work heavy cotton shirts.

I cut two sections as pictured above and hemmed where the pieces have been pinned.

Since this was a salvage mission there wasn’t enough fabric to make a continuous sash to form the apron tie so I did the following:

  • Cut myself a selection of strips from the shirt all roughly the same width
  • Pressed each strip in half
  • Folded the strip out and then folded each edge into the centre and pressed again to form a strip of fabric that resembles bias tape
  • Inside the fold I slipped a length of iron on hemming tape (I could have stitched these pieces together but the tape acts a little like interfacing once cooled and creates a stiff feel to the apron tie for a more dramatic bow at the back.)
  • … and ironed it inside.

I stitched the strips together to form a generous length of material (saving a piece for the neck)

attaching the strip to the two apron pieces by sewing as shown by the pinned area.

attached the neck piece…

and we have an Alice dress with apron. As it turns out I didn’t have enough material left for sleeves, you can always add some if you prefer. Instead I popped on one of my daughters school blouses under the dress.

Of course no Alice costume is complete without an Alice Band…

It took me about 10 minutes if that to knock up this quicky one:

  • Fold over a rectangle of fabric, stitch together, turn out and press so that the hem falls along the middle of the back.
  • Do this again with another piece but not as wide.
  • Thread your elastic through this smaller piece.
  • Stitch the fabric and elastic together keeping the elastic pulled tight so that you create a gathered effect on the fabric once the tension is released.
  • Gather together the top piece and stitch the two pieces together.

Here’s my daughter wearing the dress (which, even if I do say myself, she was delighted with)…

All together now… “Not pink, Not green, Not aquamarine, We’re painting the roses red!”


We’d love to see your creations, send your photos to us and we will include them in our gallery. You can email your pictures to us at

or add the Lily P Chic Facebook profile to your friends list, post your pictures and send us a note.


Fairy Toadstools